Grace Lichtenstein's Blog

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

Being a senior is great when it comes to discounted food, opera and transportation, among other things. When I was in Los Angeles a few weeks ago, I asked for and got a 10 % senior discount at one of my favorite already-inexpensive "healthy eating" chain restaurants, Souplantation.

The Brentwood branch at San Vicente and Montana was hopping on a weekday night with families and senior couples. I am a salad lover and at Souplantation (or its sister cafeterias, called Sweet Tomatoes) you can pile your plate high with good salad ingredients, add a muffin, a soft drink and a dessert, all for about $10.. This ain't fancy dining, but if you long for a fast, nutritious meal, these are great spots. They are located all over the West and Midwest.

In New York City recently, I got my hands on an orchestra seat for only $20 at the Metropolitan Opera to see "Aida." A friend scored one of the 50 tickets reserved for seniors at week-night performances and heard Natalie Dessay in "Lucia di Lammermoor."

Discounts don't get better than that. The Met reserves 200 orchestra seats (mostly on the side of the orchestra, but still...) for performances Monday through Thursday only. Of those 200, 50 may be available on the day of performance only to seniors online or over the phone. As these become better known, they'll be harder to get, and even now you have to keep redialing (phone) or refreshing (on the Web site.)

While in New York, take advantage of the senior discount on buses and subways -- the cost is half-price: $1 instead of $2 for a single ride. Plan in advance and you can order a discount card by mail. There is also a walk-in site in downtown Manhattan.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

Worst airline in the U.S.? There are lots to choose from.

Worst terminal in a major hub? No contest: American Airlines at LAX.

I left my Santa Monica hotel 3 hours before my 1 p.m. flight, as friends urged. I even stopped at a supermarket to buy prepared foods for both lunch & dinner.Then I took Lincoln Boulevard rather than the freeway toward LAX.

This is the 21st century, yet it would seem that going Greyhound from Los Angeles might be more scenic, and about the same level of comfort. The American Airline LAX terminal is a low-ceilinged slum with endless lines, long, long hallways and crowded check-in facilities.

Pulling my carryon, I waiting for 25 minutes while the passenger line inched toward the security area. American's security portals are so ancient they don't even have conveyor belts or rollers to get your stuff smoothly to the X-Ray machine. If you are a senior, it is helpful to have a strong, young gent in line nearby to help you lift your bags.

Did things improve past the security choke point? Mais non! The waiting area for the NYC-bound plane was so filthy it reminded me of the Calcutta airport (the worst I ever saw) minus the beggars. It should be busted by the Board of Health.

We boarded an hour late, despite all signs indicating the flight was "on time." We arrived at JFK after 10 p.m. Then it was a 20 minute shlep from the gate to the AirTrain.

If this is what it means to get old and cranky, I am returning to age 20 tomorrow. Icelandic Air to Luxemburg, anyone?

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

Last night, past midnight, I finished reading The Night Journal by Elizabeth Crook, a novel that takes place in present and past New Mexico. I stumbled upon this book in the gift shop at Pecos Pueblo, where I stopped recently.

I had never heard of this author and wondered why a novel was featured at a National Parks shop, along with the usual histories and archeology books. I discovered that the book took place in the very spot where I had bought it. My only regret was that I had not read the book while in New Mexico, so I could return to the prehistoric pueblo and "walk in the footsteps" of the chatacters. If you love New Mexico and ancient Puebloan places, I recommend this title highly.

During my summer in New Mexico and Colorado I learned about other titles and authors whose names were not familiar. That is the great attraction of reading what I call books "in situ" -- Latin for "in the place." The current best seller Eat Pray Love, which I reviewed, is fun on its own. But it must be wonderful to read it in Italy, India or Bali, where it takes place. When in California, I often read books by the likes of Joan Didion (perhaps its most gifted native writer, even though she no longer lives there) or Wallace Stegner (who was not a native, but whose Angle of Repose takes place in part there and is perhaps the finest work of historical fiction about the Gold Rush frontier west.)

Any recommendations of other great travel reads for specific places? Seniors, as we know, are the greatest class of book readers and buyers these days. Please share your favorites.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

It has been a thrill to follow 75-year-old Herb Schon on his bicycle trip across the U.S. As an avid senior cyclist, I know how he feels when he let out a "yahoo!" upon reaching the tour's midpoint in Kansas. In 1992 I rode cross-country on a bicycle adventure, from Seattle to Asbury Park, NJ. We took a different, more northerly route, but it was just as strenuous. I admire Herb's outlook:

"Time was flying by. Lots of good roads, rollers and better scenery began to appear. At day's end I surprised myself with the thought of wanting more miles. Hmmm, I must be losing it."

When Herb's group reached St. Joseph, Missouri, they were at one of the famous departure points in American history. From here,the Forty-Niners headed for California and the Gold Rush, and thousands of emigrants began their pioneer journeys here seeking a new life in the American West.

Herb said that his "body needed help" after four weeks and serious Kansas headwinds. Thus, "a rest day on July 2 was welcomed. Slept until 7:30, relaxed by the pool and did an easy 20 miler to make sure the knees functioned. A big WOW tinged with some sadness. Only three more weeks," he said.

I will admit that on my cross-country ride, I was really, really happy when there were only three weeks to go. But I'm not as tough -- and I didn't train as rigorously -- as Herb Schon. He is a role model for every senior bicycle rider. I look forward to visiting him later this summer in Santa Fe.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

On your mark, Herb! Our intrepid senior cyclist Herb Schon of Santa Fe, NM writes that he's just about ready and fit for his epic bicycle ride across the U.S.

Earier this month, he said that with just a few weeks to go before leaving for San Francisco, "I feel in good shape. I recover well overnight and have no lingering sore muscles."

Herb has cut down on the number of ride days. He's doing "fewer but longer days in the saddle--" lots of rides over 60 miles and a few over 100. "The totals since my training began on March 1 have been 2,460 miles and 205 hours in the saddle." Herb's last local hurrah in New Mexico will be to take part in the Santa Fe Century on May 24.

Celebrating his 75th birthday with this ambitious agenda, Herb says "I can feel the excitement building as the start day approaches. Already worrying about what I'll forget to pack and something happening to the bike (never me!) the next few weeks. Good signs."

The departure date from San Francisco is June 2. Herb and others on the America By Bicycle tour will wind up their journey in Portsmouth, N.H. July 24.

The only thing Herb asks is where we think he might find the "replacement butt" he might need. Any suggestions?

Meanwhile, let's all give a cheer for Herb as he shows that it's not your age or your butt, but your enthusiasm (and your training) that counts when it comes to being a senior fitness poster boy.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

Can you be a travel writer and hate air travel? Yes.

This year I've suffered more bad trips than hippies did in 1966. Air travel has become the bus service of the new millennium: welcome to the friendly skies of Greyhound. To those over 55 who remember decent service, it's especially galling -- and hard on both mind and body.

It didn't take a blizzard (although one did delay me) nor did I fly Jet Blue. Yet I found myself longing for the time when you didn't have to chugalug your water or stash toothpaste, sunscreen, and lipsticks in a Ziploc bag… when you didn't have to shlep in socks through security… when airlines did not lie about delayed departures and when terminal food did not taste like Styrofoam.

On United from Denver recently I was in a narrow coach row with crumbs all over, and an unwiped tray. Then flight attendants announced that that even though complete rows of Economy Plus seats were empty, phantom customers might have paid $50 extra for the few inches of extra legroom in them. So, those of us stuffed three-across in steerage (dozens of coach rows behind the exit rows) were warned not to move once the plane took off. That sucks.

At Salt Lake City's Delta terminal I waited a half-hour in a security queue on a non-holiday Thursday morning. I watched 4-year-olds struggle to take their own shoes off while their moms were juggling baby formula bottles and infants in their arms.

Meanwhile everyone tells stories of forgotten hand lotion that passed undetected in carryon bags, of waiting a half-hour and more for checked bags to show up at New York's LaGuardia Airport, and other horror tales. I sure hope we've discouraged terrorists, because the extreme measures are discouraging us, the mature travelers.

Disagree? Say so in our discussion section..

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

While snowbound by a blizzard in Aspen, Colorado's premier ski town this week and forced to endure the fantastic snow conditions, I took advantage of the 10 percent senior discount at on-mountain Aspen restaurants such as Bonnie's and the Sundeck. But that was only part of the fun. I caught a number of acts at the 13th annual HBO Comedy Arts Festival.

The event has become a huge success, thanks in no small part to HBO participation and appearances by such cutting-edge political humorists as Andy Borowitz, he of the popular Borowitz Report blog, who hosted an installment of the live and sometimes serious, sometimes hilarious storytelling show The Moth, and Comedy Central's Stephen Colbert, whose appearance at the St. Regis Ballroom was the Main Show (sold out, natch) at the St. Regis Ballroom Friday night. Colbert was honored as the Festival's 2006 'Man of the Year.'

Interesting that among the fuzzy-cheeked younger stars of stand-up and comedy movies at the festival was greybeard George Carlin, celebrating 50 years in show business. I wasn't able to score tickets for his show, but the buzz was -- sadly -- not great about his act. Friends told me numerous audience members actually walked out on Carlin. Meanwhile, Don Rickles, Mr Insult, got lots of laffs as he too was strutting 50 years' worth of his stuff at another performance.A surprise guest at his show: Bob Newhart, yet another senior citizen humorist.

And rounding out the old guys' threesome was Jonathan Winters, who, at the ripe age of 80, was the subject of a 'dadamentary' produced by Jim Pasternak called Certifiably Jonathan that premiered at the Comedy Fest. It appearances by such funny folks as Robin Williams and Sara Silverman.

All in all, a winning combination of outdoors -- skiing Aspen/Snowmass still lures the mega-rich and famous as well as aging snow bunnies like myself... and indoors -- it would have been too much to have stand-up comics freeze their butts off trying to make jokes performing outside.

I hope the rumors that the Comedy Arts Festival, which has become central to the zeitgeist of pop culture, will move next year to another locale with a more moderate climate for pasty-faced younger humor fans aren't true. After all, aside from all its other attractions, the Aspen area was the longtime home of the late, great, mordantly funny gonzo journalist Hunter Thompson until his death last year at age 67.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

I'm amazed at the inventiveness of cruise lines and cruise charter companies in designing theme cruises and adventures that appeal to today's active seniors. It's no longer good enough to set sail, eat, gamble ahd shop. Senior travel experts know their clients want great activities.

A while back I wrote about a new Norwegian Coastal Voyage adventure cruise to Greenland fjords and towns. . Today I'm posting details on the first-ever Elvis Tribute Cruise, which will depart from Jacksonville, Fla. over Labor Day this summer. How's that for a range of experiences? I can't recall if Elvis ever performed in Greenland, but maybe the next unique cruise will combine the two themes!

Meanwhile all kinds of cruises that head for Alaska are now featuring new events. On one Norwegian Cruise Line trip there is a dog sled ride scheduled near Skagway. Other Alaska cruises are including such exotic land adventures as hikes, motorcycle tours, sea kayaking and wilderness river fishing. Other cruises routinely offer side excursions for bicycles, horseback riding and scuba diving.

Meanwhile, cruise lines now are creating a host of one-of-a-kind theme cruises, from golf to the Civil War to chocolate. One place where you can learn about theme cruises is at Cruisemates, an online guide to all things cruising.

So what's your ideal activity, one that you have not yet seen as an offering on a small or large ship cruise? A combination of cruising and sky-diving? Murder mysteries plus lectures by detectives and appearances by "CSI: Miami" stars? Or have you found one that you think is remarkable? Let me and my readers know by using the discussion board here.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

Meet Herb Schon -- 75 years young, and training for his Diamond Birthday gift to himself, a cross-country bicycle trip.

Herb, who lives in Santa Fe, N.M. is a retired advertising executive. On June 2, in San Francsico he'll dip his bicycle wheel in the waters of the Pacific Ocean, the traditional gesture in beginning a coast-to coast bike tour. He will join others on a journey of 3,836 miles over 52 days that ends in Portsmouth, N.H. July 24.

Herb was pedaling alone last summer, thinking about his upcoming milestone birthday. He decided, " I'll have to celebrate the occasion and not just with a 75-mile ride."

Not many of his friends have two months free. So he hunted for an organized tour and came up with the trip offered by America by Bicycle, a well-known bicycle tour outfitter.

Herb is determined to take the challenge despite a personal history of three rotator cuff tears, numerous knee injuries from skiing and a wife who is not a cyclist.

"The ride represents, beyond the age factor, the desire and work ethic that has motivated me in my pursuit and love of sports and fitness." The only concession: he will stay in motels rather than camping.

Herb knows that even his regular club rides would not get him to the fitness level he needs. So next month he starts serious long-distance training-- 80-mile rides three times a week, plus two days of riding toward the Santa Fe Ski Basin, which in itself is a monster climb by bicycle. For now he's just skiing and snowshoeing.

Of course, people who think 10 miles make a full day ask: why?

"I've always maintained that age should not enter the equation. The keys are desire and effort. Whether running, skiing or cycling, I have always sought to participate with much younger people as a means of working harder. I may be dropped or fall off the pace, or use the granny gear on my bicycle frequently, but I couldn't get this kind of training by being part of the geriatric pack. It's all too easy to drift along. The true joy comes from setting goals and meeting them.

"Besides," added Herb, "I don't play chess nor have I tried learning to shuffle a deck of bridge cards.

I'll check in regularly with Herb, and you abreast of his progress toward this fabulously ambitious cross-country trip.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

Avid bicycle tourists like myself are always on the lookout for new, emerging, unusual places that travel companies have chosen for new bike tours. So sound the trumpets, please, for Sicily and Puglia in Italy, Argentina and the Silk Road -- destinations that are attracting growing interest from the loyal followers of Butterfield and Robinson. From Backroads, meanwhile, comes equally exciting new bicycle riding territory: Hungary, Slovakia and Poland.

Since we geezers-in-age-only have lived through dark days when some of these places were off-limits for political or other reasons, these announcements are especially welcome.

Northwest Argentina

Next month Paola Sartori will guide a group of B&R bicycle riders through the northwest corner of Argentina. I've enjoyed walking the streets of Buenos Aires, and I think this trip sounds absolutely sensational. The region Paola has scouted and planned riding through is her own backyard, called the Portenos. Among the highlights are high altitude wineries, the remarkable ancient ruins of Quilmes and some incredible rock formations -- plus a hotel and spa called Patios de Cafayate.

Hungary, Slovakia and Poland

Starting in June, the first Backroads group will be pedaling through old-world Europe, starting in Budapest and ending in Krakow. The itinerary includes the 14th-century Niedzica Castle as well as the rolling, forested hills of the Spis region of eastern Slovakia, which the Backroads advance guard said reminded them of the Cascades. It sounds like a great way to discover authentic, lightly-touristed villages and spectacular Alpine scenery.

What I have found is that when the newest trips appear in a tour operator's catalog, some of B&R's and Backroads' most interesting regulars are the first to sign up. Nobody can guarantee you'll meet simpatico folks, but your chances are pretty darn good.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

Butterfield and Robinson and Backroads are platinum names in what the industry calls "soft adventure." I don't love this term, but when I think of it as soft beds combined with adventure each day, it makes sense. Sort of.

So where are Butterfield's and Backroads' enthusiasts headed for this summer? A spokeswoman tells me the top draws at Butterfield "are always our With the Kids trips, which many grandparents take their kids and extended families on." Other trips filling up quickly include: Classic Greece By Sea, Burgundy Bike, Bologna to Venice Bike, Amalfi Walk, Prague to Vienna Bike and Ireland Walk.

At Backroads, a spokeswoman says that its popular family destinations for summer include: Canadian Rockies, Yellowstone & Tetons, San Juan Islands of Washington, and Alaska. Among the most popular non-family trip destinations are Tuscany, Czech Republic & Austria, Canadian Rockies, and California Wine Country.

Neither company specializes in "senior" travel but both attract loyalists enjoying their personal prime time. From the above destination choices, it's clear that boomers (and those a bit older) take advantage of the summer months to travel with children and grandchildren, and that both central and western Europe are in their sights. When it comes to North America, to judge from my rather random discussions, a lot of folks look to the majestic mountain landscapes of the Rockies, while an interest in pedaling and sipping their way through the vineyards of California remains a favorite attraction.

Next, we'll look at newly emerging destinations from these tour operators.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

"New Guinea, hands-down." That was the response I got from a spokeswoman for ElderTreks in Toronto today when I asked about tours that were filling up fast for July and August. Have you been to this Shangri La yet? Did you love it? What did you like best? I'd love to hear from you. And if you've had Papua and New Guinea on your "to-visit" list but have not yet made plans, it seems like you had better get cracking. On the homefront, Elderhostel's "Top Ten" list includes a tour of the Black Hills of South Dakota, Mt. Rushmore and the Badlands.

There are more than a few departures for hot trips, but the earlier you sign up the better chance you have of getting your preferred dates. As a former Westerner (I lived in both New Mexico and Colorado) I suspect that by the time travelers get to their grown-up years, they have already seen the wonders of places like the Colorado Rockies, Navajo Country and Santa Fe. That could be one reason why South Dakota is now in everyone's sights. Also, let's not discount HBO's Deadwood -- anyone who has seen this fascinating series is bound to develop a keen interest in that gold-rush town.

But maybe the place you're eager to see is Vietnam, which is on everyone's radar these days. Since this is an adventure lots of folks want to experience, you will do well to plan 12 months out. And while you are there, what about Laos? Cambodia?

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

A March 2007 investigation by Consumer Reports made me worried enough about flying, an issue that seems to grow bigger as I grow older. It seems I'm not the only Nervous Nellie.

A press release from the Professional Airways Systems Specialists (PASS), the union that represents more than 11,000 Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) employees, calls the findings a "wake-up call to the FAA." The article, titled "An accident waiting to happen?" explores the air safety concerns arising from the increasing outsourcing of maintenance and inspection responsibilities.

Consumer Reports wrote that airlines are increasing their reliance on overseas maintenance facilities, which are subject to less oversight and fewer inspections. At the same time, the FAA is reducing the actual number of inspections of repair facilities and airline oversight in general.

The margin of safety thus decreases as airlines contract out more than half of their maintenance work.

According to the magazine, domestic and foreign repair posts rely on staff that is not licensed and does not undergo security screenings. It also said the FAA is growing more reliant on statistical-based analysis, rather than physical inspections of repair facilities.

The double whammy is compounded by the fact that this is happing at the same time as the FAA is allowing the number of safety inspectors to dissipate through attrition.

"The FAA is playing a dangerous game" by allowing more maintenance overseas while "the number of inspectors to shrink, with 50 percent of inspectors being eligible to retire by 2010. It is literally a disaster waiting to happen," said a union official.

Once upon a time, most of us thought air travel was safer than driving a car. Now? It ain't fun because of heavy security and packed planes. Now it might be a little less safe as well. How do you feel about this? Let's hear from you.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

How cold was it? Cold enough to ground most of The Weekday Cyclists, New York's Tuesday and Thursday riding club. But that did not stop us from meeting as usual at 10 a.m. at the Boathouse to take advantage of the car-free roadways of Central Park. We simply left our bicycles home. Instead, we walked. Briskly. For 75 minutes. By the time we made it back to the Boathouse, the cheeks of the six of us were ruddy but our bodies were warm and all thoughts of being sedentary vanished. We heard the birds, at least those distaining the 10-degree temperatures. We saw the Parks Department manufacturing snow near the bandshell south of the 72nd Street transverse road, in preparation for the weekend Winterfest. We circumvented the icy patches on the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Reservoir (did you know it was named for her?) and noted the absence of equestrians on the bridal path. We admired the bluebird sky and congratulated ourselves on our hardy constitutions. We schmoozed.

Sometimes it's good to dismount.

We missed you outside walking today. Just because you're older doesn't mean you have to hibernate when the mercury plunges. Adventure is where you find it, even in the center of Gotham.

Posted by Grace Lichtenstein

I just returned from a wonderful Elderhostel ski trip to Winter Park, Colorado. It is one of the "icebox of the nation" spots that last week truly bumped up its BRRRR-reputation.... By Friday the dials on the mountain registered 40-below F at the top of Parsenn Bowl.

But hey, I braved the fridge-fest so you won't have to... I hope. This week promises to be positively balmy -- temps today are in the 20 to 30 F range, with just a nip of a wind to keep you honest as an adventure geezer.

How do you feel about that term "geezer" by the way? My feeling is, let's reclaim it... make it a badge of honor. After all, as my Aunt Helen likes to say, "Growing older is not for sissies."

But what about those arctic temps? What about frostbite? What about dem cold, sometimes brittle bones? Again, let me quote a sage -- my cycling pal Trudy -- who says: "there is no bad weather, only bad clothing."

In other words, if you're skiing in really really chilly-willy weather, put on an extra layer-- light longjohns for the first layer, light fleece for the second, heavy fleece for the third, then a shell jacket.. Wear a face mask (I did. OK, so I look like a small dark animal in the group fotos) Cold fingers and toes? Those hand and foot warming thingies that I call "teabags" only cost about $3 and they work.

My Elderhostel colleagues could have cared less about the recorded temperatures. Ranging in age from 55 to 80, a few were on line at 8:30 a.m. for the first chairlift of the day. Inspirational!